How do you disguise your bug out preparedness and blend in? Thinking back to your clothing, does it allow for stuffing pockets with essentials? Do you want to get out of the city or head deeper into it? Consider you work an 8 hour day, 40 hours a week for the rest of your life. What other activity other than sleep will occupy your time longer? Can you do it? Are you in shape? If need be, are you able to shed your gear quickly to move defensively? Can you access your gear on the run?
What would you need to grab on the run? Safety is found in numbers. This gives riding shotgun its original meaning back. Learn what you and your vehicle are capable of before an emergency. Long before a storm hits, there are usually warnings. Small fire resistant safes are portable but an easy target for thieves if not secured as well. Make photocopies of documents whenever possible. In the city and suburbs, street maps will provide information about structures, roads, government buildings and much more. There are many maps that are sub-par and inaccurate.
AAA maps are extremely detailed maps for your state.
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- The Battle for Eire!
- A Manual for Self-Reliance and Survival by Pat Barnes - Issuu?
- The Banshees Desire (The Banshees Embrace Trilogy Book 2)!
- Throw Granny off the Balcony and Other Short Stories?
- Blueprint Crochet Sweaters: Techniques for Custom Construction;
- List of the best survival books for preppers (reviews below):?
Topographical maps will provide the most detail. There are no moving parts on maps and nothing to break. You can lose a map or have the information maybe vital compromised. Positive red to Booster Battery then Positive red to Dead. Negative black to Booster Battery then Negative black to unpainted metal frame of Dead.
Start Booster Car, let run. Attempt to start Dead Vehicle. If Vehicle has been dead for a while, longer charge may be necessary. Portable power is a benefit if traveling without a convoy. Portable power needs to be recharged and this is not always possible. Set parking brakes and turn off all accessories. It is natural to want to stick together in times of crisis.
Have you made sure your family members know where to meet? Highway rest stop What happens if the highway is closed? If parties are returning to a home, they can move to it and enter it as a group. Rally points can be established coming from a place of work to a home. Cars have blind spots and occupants can be caught off guard and carjacked.
When cars slow down, they become vulnerable. Be prepared to keep moving if confronted with a threat rapidly pull away. Rally Point Photo References A rally point such as a weather radar, radio tower, water tank or other prominent feature can be found on most topographical maps and is easily spotted from many angles. Having a rally point accessible from many directions can be a benefit.
How can it be a liability? This point also is in an area with immediate access to a major highway in both directions. The photos above are of the same radar from 3 angles. The bottom left is near an industrial park with many exits and a large open parking lot. How do you deal with the anxiety? Phone cards and spare change if you can find a payphone will help. Do you have a CB radio?
HAM radio? Know how to use it? Do not leave your plans for the public to see. Too little or too much can hurt you. A few common key words may be helpful if rehearsed and understood in a family. They can be included in a vehicle kit as the emergency band still works and they usually are equipped with lithium batteries. The message will get through if a phone line is busy. My home is my castle. The conditions are not the same now. Do you want to abandon it for someone else to use? You may need to bunker down until it is safe to move to the embassy or airport.
This can be done with door wedges, plywood, chains, pad locks and other security items. These preparations should be done well in advance. If possible, avoid external shows of security and make your home blend in. Make sure everyone involved is aware of security and safety. Discuss rules and make pacts.
You can use this water for manually flushing your toilet, cleaning clothes, etc. Do not use this for drinking. Did you plan for this? What issues will you face? How will you respond? Rubbish will start to build up. How about from your hot water heater? If an emergency lasts too long, you may end up leaving to resupply. This will improve morale.
Store the information away in your head now! What happens when it is down? Are you prepared? It should be a bottom-floor room with concrete surrounding as many sides as possible. These rooms are used for protection against natural disasters typically…but…it can be used against home invasion.
Plywood covered with sheetrock will prevent someone from entering without special tools. It is meant to slow someone down until police arrive , not totally stop them. Get a door that swings open, not in. It is harder to kick in. This is why I consider it optional. Combination locks like the one above make fumbling for keys unnecessary Generators Good ones cost dearly.
Gas storage, risky. Portable Toilets 4. Seasoned Firewood. Wood takes about 6 - 12 months to become dried, for home uses. If scarce, stockpile ANY! Coleman Fuel. Impossible to stockpile too much. Rice - Beans - Wheat Charcoal, Lighter Fluid Will become scarce suddenly Water Containers Urgent Item to obtain.
Any size. Propane Cylinders Urgent: Definite shortages will occur. Survival Guide Book. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc. Without this item, longer-term lighting is difficult. Vitamins Bow saws, axes and hatchets, Wedges also, honing oil Aluminum Foil Reg. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, Paper Towels Coleman's Pump Repair Kit Tuna Fish in oil Fire Extinguishers or.. First aid kits Batteries all sizes Big Dogs and plenty of dog food Boxed, wooden matches will go first Insulated ice chests good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime.
Garbage cans Plastic great for storage, water, transporting - if with wheels Duct Tape Candles Laundry Detergent liquid Backpacks, Duffel Bags Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc. Carbon Monoxide Alarm battery powered Board Games, Cards, Dice Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc. Reading glasses Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc.
Lumber all types Lantern Hangers Teas Coffee Cigarettes Paraffin wax Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc. Have a way to carry and transfer it. Use twist top containers whenever possible.
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Soda bottles work great! When this is the case, fill any available containers with drinking water. It will be depleted faster than you realize. Water will be used not only for drinking but for sanitation purposes too. Approximately 16 drops of bleach per gallon of water for drinking is the formula. Prevent the spread of germs. Also unsafe, radiator water and toilet water.
Boiling is the best way to treat water. Make sure your storage area can support all the weight of the water you will need. With what tools? Private land? Do you know the law? What risks do you encounter if you chose to cache in each of these locations. Consider the morale of having a brick of In the event of a fire, how much of your equipment would be lost?
It is not a bad idea to keep some equipment in a separate location for circumstances like this. Given the long shelf life, this is an excellent idea for a bucket cache. How you close it is one consideration, how you open it is another. If all of your preps are in buckets, consider a bucket wrench.
Square containers store more flush and create little dead space. Water usage is rarely considered when taking a long hot shower. How much water really is used? How long have you gone without a shower? What health risks and comfort sacrifices are undertaken when showering does not occur on a regular basis?
In a group, it will also boost individual and group morale. You may find that it has been accidentally on all day, and when you need it the batteries will be already worn out. In that case don't put the batteries inside the unit until you are required to use it. Even if you have the most advanced, water proof machined aluminum light source, bring a spare bulb and spare alkaline batteries just in case.
A Mini- Mag Lite will fit in the smallest of 10 essential kits but may not be adequate for all-night travel. Headlamps are useful for cave exploring and when the hands are otherwise occupied. After tiring of looking through my balled-up fists I finally had to cut slits in some cardboard and jury-rig some Eskimo sunglasses.
Sunglasses are available today that stop 99 percent of ultraviolet light. Poly carbonate lenses with "wraparound" designs provide more protection against wind and side glare. Glacier glasses are recommended for snowy conditions. They usually have polarized lenses and leather side shields to block out the side glare.
Buy some retaining straps when you purchase your sunglasses. Add some sunscreen to your kit for total solar protection. This category puzzles me a bit. Does it mean that I should have two water bottles filled with water and two bags of trail mix? The amount of water you bring should be determined by the length of the trip and the temperature and physical demand put on your body.
Water should be used as needed and not rationed out, i. If your body needs water, it needs it now not three hours from now! Water purification tablets might help you use other water sources. As far as food, some hikers throw cans of sardines or tuna fish into their packs knowing that they wouldn't eat it unless there was an emergency. Normal trail foods dried fruits, nuts, and granola should be eaten at regular intervals to resupply the body with energy. Pemmican is one of the most concentrated high energy foods you can carry.
See the Oct. A breezy summer hike may require only a poncho for rain protection and a light nylon wind jammer for possible cold. A day snow hike gets more complicated. An extra jacket or sweater may do, but if you will be in extreme mountain conditions, a bivouac sack, insulation pad, and a winter sleeping bag may be the only thing that will save you should the weather go bad. In normal conditions you should at least throw a metalized space blanket into your kit. This with a poncho can be used to rig up an improvised lean-to shelter.
Tape the space blanket to the poncho for support, tie the poncho to trees to form a lean-to and then build a fire in front. The space blanket will reflect the heat of the fire back on to you. Strike anywhere wood matches are a lot cheaper and can be stored in a waterproof container such as an empty plastic 35mm film can. If they're too long, just clip off the ends to the right length.
A more convenient item for starting fires can be found at your local liquor or convenience store. Throw-away plastic cigarette lighters work well and some have adjustable flames in case you need "blow torch" action. Hexamine tablets won't evaporate like Trioxane Fuel Bars do when the wrapper is ripped, and come six tablets to a small cardboard tube.
A firestarter is used only when conditions make it difficult to start a fire. Preparation is the key to fire building. You need plenty of kindling sticks or pieces of wood split thin with your knife to make the larger diameter branches catch. Most people begin their fires with inadequate supplies of tinder and kindling and are frustrated when they can't get a three inch thick log to catch fire. Among other things it helps in first aid, food preparation, and fire building. As long as you have a knife you can make fire. Striking steel on any flint-like rock will produce sparks that can catch fire in carefully prepared tinder and kindling - materials you have gathered and prepared using the knife.
More elaborate versions of pocket knives contain a treasure chest of useful tools: saws, tweezers, scissors, screwdrivers, awls, toothpicks, can openers, etc A good Swiss Army knife will bring out the MacGyver in all of us. Don't forget this item! A FIRST AID KIT really isn't one item but a collection of items that can contain the bare minimum of bandaids, aspirin, and iodine or on the other extreme contain suture kits, chemically activated cold packs and prescription drugs.
This is where you will have to really do some customizing and personalizing. I store my first aid items in a plastic Zip Loc bag so that I can see everything inside and protect them from the weather. Along with an assortment of bandaids, gauze pads, and Steri-Strips, are the following: insect repellent, sunscreen, lip balm with SPF 21, triple antibiotic ointment, small bottle of Hibiclens Surgical Scrub, Aspirin, Diasorb tablets for diarrhea, Actifed decongestant , Bonine motion sickness , and Benadryl antihistamine.
Other items that are helpful are: a needle for splinter extraction, moleskin or Spenco Second Skin for blisters, Ace bandage, small needle-nose pliers, single-edge razor blades, and Calamine cream for insect bites. The "11th" item of the 10 essentials most people carry is toilet paper. Other "essentials" I bring include: an Air Force type signal mirror, 50 feet of parachute cord, mini-Leatherman tool, and plastic fluorescent marking tape for trail marking. You might want to add a pocket signal flare and other items such as a smoke generator for signaling.
Your 10 essentials kit can be packaged in a number of ways. The most convenient is a small day pack. Day packs will hold your water bottle, extra clothing and food for most daytime trips. Get one made out of Cordura nylon with padded straps. For extensive mountain bike rides many cyclists like to use waist packs or fanny packs to store their emergency gear and a banana or two.
A waist pack is generally cooler to wear and provides for a lower center of gravity. Water is normally carried on the frame of the bicycle, so the packs can be smaller and lighter. The last essential that needs to be taken on all your trips into the wilderness won't fit in a survival kit.
It's called common sense and is a prime commodity in both the city and in the outdoors. If it looks like rain - don't go. If it looks too high - stay back. If it's getting dark - get back to your base. By avoiding unnecessary problems and dangers you will save on your own personal wear and tear, and probably get back home in one piece. However, if something does come up, at least you know you've got those 10 important items stowed away in your rucksack. No matter what the destination or reason for the trip, my knapsack survival kit travels with me whenever I venture beyond the blacktop.
It's the very first item thrown on board. No exceptions. If I happen to be taking off as navigator in a friend's vehicle, the knapsack is still mandatory equipment. Survival is a personal responsibility so it's unwise to count on someone else being sufficiently prepared. This entire kit is contained in a robust, canvas knapsack that, when full, weighs just under 7 pounds and takes no more space than two six-packs.
In all, there are items randomly packed into the kit, all of which directly or indirectly contribute to the six basic survival requirements. But here too, food items require rotation at least annually. Inventory for Augmentation Kit. Michael Smith. See also the author's auxillary crisis pack. See also the author's Advanced Crisis Pack. As there has been a bit of talk here lately about what to do for long-term compact food I thought I'd start with this part.
Hard candy is one of the most compact forms of calories available, is stable under most conditions, but provides no vitamins or other nutrients and no feeling of fullness;. Power bars also provide lots of calories in a compact form as well as a decent supply of vitamins, etc.
David Lee’s Big List of Survival Supplies
Granola bars are bulky but light and provide plenty of roughage for fullness and to keep your lower GI tract in working order;. Slim Jims are my least favorite item, they provide protein, but way too much fat, while fat also adds to the feeling of fullness I worry about it going rancid despite all the preservatives;.
The drink mix is half orange Koolaid with sugar and half orange Gatorade, enough for 2 quarts of each, mixed well, about 3 fl. Obviously you will need H2O to go with this, but that's another letter. Everything except the drink mix is ready to unwrap and eat please don't litter! All these items were bought in a suburban supermarket except the Power Bars, which came from a or an outdoor store at the normal prices. You can probably get them cheaper by the usual methods. I am assuming you have qt.
If not add the price of those to the following calculations. With the air squeezed out each bag weighs about 1. Total: 6 lbs. Very portable. I would like to hear any comments anyone has on this set-up. Short Survival List by dmorley k Food For Thought by Chris Janowsky. Whether it be a natural disaster or one that's manmade, being prepared can mean the difference between life or death. Many of you readers know me as a writer and a wilderness survival instructor. This is World Survival Institute's 25th Anniversary year of teaching people the skills and knowledge they need to stay alive in most any emergency.
We constantly emphasize to our students the value of being prepared. Putting food up for the future is a very important aspect of being prepared and is usually one of the first things most of us think about. There are a number of good companies out there that sell M. You may well choose to have some of their products as part of your overall emergency preparedness inventory. However, it is just as important that you know how to preserve food yourself, especially meat. Meat is a significant part of most people's diet. From it, our bodies receive vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, and precious muscle-regenerating protein.
In most wilderness survival situations, wild game and fish are very easy to procure if you know how. This makes meat and fish a natural way to go. Whether you are in the wilderness or in the city, putting up meat is a wise idea. However, there are certain considerations that we have to think about when dealing with meat or fish. Depending upon the ambient temperature, meat can spoil very quickly. Meat by its nature is very heavy and if it has to be transported in the future, this should be of great concern, Especially if you have to pack it on your back.
There are many ways to overcome these problems either in the field or at home. First of all we have to know why meat spoils and what to do about it. Your first concern is your plan. What I'm talking about here is a complete plan. Nobody knows what is going to happen tomorrow but we should plan for the most likely emergencies. Your plan could make the difference between life or death for you and your family. As mentioned above, many people are stocking up on M.
These, plus water and whatever you normally keep in your kitchen cupboards should be the first part of your plan. Having extra food and water at home during and after a disaster means you don't have to worry about battling the mob down at the supermarket-if it is open. Let's call this plan "A. This is why you need plan "B.
Depending on the circumstances your plan "B" may have to be initiated. This plan would be implemented if you chose or were forced to move from your dwelling. Many people believe they will be able to use their trucks and cars to transport all their stuff to a safe haven. But what if the roads are closed? What if a natural disaster has destroyed bridges and covered highways with debris?
I believe that it is a good idea to have your vehicles set up but don't depend on it. You may end up only being able to take what you can carry on your back, and folks, that ain't much. Remember that flies can easily get into the ole ointment. The next plan is plan "C. This plan I don't even want to think about but I-and you-must. You may have to take off with what is only on your person, no bags, no backpacks. Knowledge at this time is worth far more than gold. You'll have to find your food as you go and be able to transport it with reduced weight for tomorrow.
When you are in a wilderness survival situation and on the move, you must procure food wherever and whenever you find it. Let's say you come across a nice lake abundant with fish. Naturally you are going to take some fish for dinner, but what about tomorrow and the next week? If you are on the move, you may not find another good food source for days.
If the fishing is good, you'll want to catch as many as you can NOW. Let's say you take in 44 nice fish averaging 1 pound each. You cook and eat 4 fish during that day. There are still 40 fish left, which equals 40 pounds. This is far too much weight to transport on your back, and if freezing conditions do not exist, they will spoil rapidly. You are going to have to dehydrate dry and smoke the fish. When you are done your 40 pounds of fish will weigh only pounds. This you can easily carry and it's a 10 day supply of food for one person.
Also, any part of the dry smoked fish you would normally discard like skin and bones will become bait for small animals. Once you trap or snare a small animal, you will do the same with them as you did with the fish, cook and eat what you can and dry the rest. You can see at this point that you are not only eating well but you have also created variety. This couldn't happen without the drying process.
Even animals like squirrels deliberately gather and spread out food to dry, like mushrooms. When putting up meat for the future at home you will be cooking, drying, and packaging it. You may want to smoke some for the taste it gives the meat. Most important will be the different ways you will be packaging the meat for your back up plans. The meat you stock in your residence is to stay there. You can cook, dry and smoke the meat if you like. You can simply can the meat in canning jars. The weight of the jars is not important for this plan. If canned properly, meat will keep for many years.
I've eaten meat that I've canned ten years before. The weakest part of this system is the lids. All lids are not equal! Over the years I've done a lot of canning. When I use my fish wheel to take in sockeye salmon, it's not uncommon to catch several hundred 5 to 8 pound fish in a night. And that represents a lot of jars and lids.
Once the jars are filled, they are placed in a pressure canner and cooked at the proper heat, pressure, and length of time. Afterward, the pressure is relieved from the cooker and the jars are left to cool slowly. As they cool, the center of the lids will be sucked down toward the contents of the jar. At this point the screw rings that held the lids in place can be removed. The jars of meat are ready for storage. Any lids that are not sucked down warn you that there is no vacuum in that jar and you DO NOT have a seal.
The contents in these jars will spoil. This situation is called a "failure. If you have a failure it's usually because of a inferior brand of lid, a defective mouth on the jar, or you didn't clean the rim of the jar well enough after adding the contents. Stick with Ball lids and you will be in good shape. When you pull a jar from the shelf later, always check the lid.
The center of the lid should still be sucked down very solidly. Tap it with your finger: it should sound solid and not move. If the lid sounds hollow and moves up and down, you have a failure. DO NOT eat the contents. Another little trick is if your jars are stored in your freezer, or are stored where they are subject to being frozen in the winter, always leave at least 1 inch of head space at the top of the jar.
If you do this, the jars will not break when frozen. I've had jars that were packed in this fashion that experienced ambient temperatures of 70 degrees below zero and none broke. When I can meat it may be in chunks or in other forms. My store house does have meat in chunks but it also has many jars of my favorite homemade chili, Moose stew, and sausages in sauce. This way you can open a jar and your meal is already prepared for you. All you have to do is heat it up.
This whole operation only requires reusable mason jars, lids, screw rings, a good pressure cooker, and a 1, pound moose. The type of pressure cooker you purchase is important. I've used many and feel the ones made by American Canner are without a doubt superior in every way except weight. They are heavy but they are built to last. They also have many safety features that the others don't have. The best thing is that they use no rubber O-ring. It's a metal-to-metal seal that will never wear out. Let's say you are set up at your wilderness home and it's two years from now.
The rubber seal goes bad on your cheaper cooker. Where are you going to buy a new O-ring? The scary part is right then you'll need this cooker to put up more food, or you and your family could be in dire straits. It's something to think about now! The next way to go is to preserve the same food in metal cans like those you see in the supermarket.
It's easy to do and you have the advantage of lighter weight and no glass to break. This is a good way to go if you have vehicle transport.
You will need cans, lids, a pressure cooker and a mechanical can canner. I put up a lot of food this way each year. Also you can seal up most anything from ammunition to medical supplies You won't be using the pressure cooker for these items, especially the ammo! The difference between canning in jars and in cans is the procedure. With jars you add heat and pressure and then the sealing happens. With cans you mechanically make the seal then add heat and pressure.
The lids on the cans will suck down, just like the canning jars. Your next step is to put up the light weight stuff. This is the food that you can carry on your back. Also, if you have a storage problem as far as space goes, cooked dried meat is the way to go. Not only does the meat lose weight, but there is a considerable reduction in its size. These are all plus factors for you. One way that I do this is to take some very lean meat; game meat like deer is the best. You can use beef, but make sure that it's lean. Usually the more inexpensive cuts are the leanest.
That's good news! Take the meat and trim off any fat you can find. Put the meat in a pan on the cooker rack in a pressure cooker. Add about 1 inch of water to the cooker, put the top on, and you are ready to go. You'll want to cook the meat until well done. Once you've gotten the water boiling and the steam gauge has risen to the right amount of pressure, you will be cooking 12 to 15 minutes for each pound of meat.
You should keep the pressure at 15 p. When the cooking process is over, the meat, no matter how tough it was, should easily flake into small slivers with the use of a fork. Next spread these flaked pieces of meat out on a cookie sheet or sheets. All you have to do now is to dry it completely. This can be done in many ovens at very low temperature with the door cracked open for ventilation and to get rid of moisture. This can also be done in a food dryer or a small smoker oven The Sausage Maker company in Buffalo, NY makes several different size smokers, all of them excellent.
As soon as the meat is completely dry, take it out and put it in containers that exclude all moisture. Vacuum sealers work very well for this purpose, and can be applied to canning jars and plastic resealable bags like M. You can dry vegetables and add your favorite spices, mix it all together and then package it.
When you need it, just add hot water and you have a meal ready to eat. You will want to cook the veggies before you dry them or they may be too tough for your liking. Pre-cooked dried rice or beans are a good addition also. Remember: cook it, dry it, keep it dry and it will last. When putting up any meat for long-term storage, start with fresh meat, keep it cold, and process it as soon as possible. Bacteria like the C. Botulinum need a nice moist environment that lacks oxygen in order to grow. When we are canning meat we are creating this very environment. Luckily, the bacterium needs one more thing in order to survive, and that is the proper temperature.
So when we can, we do it in a pressure cooker at 15 lbs. This creates a temperature of degrees F. This procedure is similar to sterilizing medical instruments in an autoclave. The C. Botulinum bacterium cannot survive jerky making either, because in making jerky you take away the moisture and fully expose the meat to the air.
As an added precaution, if you wish, you can also add a cure such as Prague Powder 1 to the marinade. This cure destroys the bacterium. Let's make some jerky! Jerky is easy to make and it's delicious. It's something you may want to always keep on hand. Because of it's nature, it's light in weight and easy to transport.
Email Me: todd.sepulveda [at] prepperwebsite.com
It's a nutritious snack and good emergency food. Start out with some nice lean meat. Beef works well but, again, wild game is by far the best. I make these about 4 inches long. Make sure any fat or gristle is trimmed off. This is the secret to good jerky with a long shelf life.
Fat can cause the meat to become rancid. The meat is then mixed in a marinade of your choice. I will give you the recipe that I use. I'm sure that you will like it, but remember that it can be easily altered to your taste. Let the meat soak for no more than 24 hours in the refrigerator. Stir it around several times while it's soaking. Next day, blot the excess liquid off the meat and place on drying racks. The meat can be dried in many different ways so long as you can hold the temperature somewhere between 95 and degrees F.
Make sure there is good air circulation so moisture can escape. Depending on what type of drying system you use, the jerky will be ready in hrs. The hand drill is probably the hardest of all primitive fire starting methods. Without practice, it can be very difficult to get the right combination of pressure and spindle speed to generate enough heat to create an ember. However, thumb loops really help facilitate this process. Thumb loops allow the user to apply more pressure on the spindle and also spin their hands in pretty much one place.
Below is a video of how I used condom thumb loops to help generate a coal with a hand drill set. I also used a handful of condoms as a engine for a traditional Bow Drill Fire Set. Seriously, how can a condom provide you with survival food? In more ways than you might think actually…. Sounds funny, right? Remember, your ability to improvise is your most valuable survival skill! After a little detailing and carving I ended up with a nice little pocket sized Sling Shot Frame.
Next, I used 3 condoms on each fork to provide the force necessary to kill small game. I put the condoms inside each other with a little wad of cattail fuzz at the bottom and used duct tape to hold each condom band on the frame. The wad of cattail fuzz prevents the condoms from pulling out of the duct tape. I decided rather than launch imperfect rocks with a leather pouch, I would use a loop of bank line as a anchor point to nock a hand-carved mini dart. I wrapped the other end of the condoms around the loop of bank line and again duct taped it in place. As you can see, some of the darts are tipped with a Honey Locust thorn using Pine Pitch.
Oh, ye of little faith. Worse case scenario, a condom can be used as a crude rubber glove while dealing with any first aid related issues. While there are many natural options for a fishing bobber, a make-shift condom bobber is pretty darn effective. Did you know that life-jackets used to be filled with cattail down before synthetic materials were invented?
You may need to know that if you ever want to construct a survival life-jacket! The cattail down adds a little weight to prevent your bobber from just blowing around in the wind. He debuted in the sling shot video above when I put a mini-arrow through his face. I have to say, I did feel a little pressure to perform when he was watching me carve out the Condom Hand Drill set below. I always do better in front of an audience anyway.
Ok, so what did I miss? What other survival uses for a condom can YOU think of? What is another product we can brainstorm for survival functions? If you like my posts, you will also like my book. These can be hard to find. Hurricane Sandy is yet another sober reminder that none of us are exempt from disaster.
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In this article I discuss a few thoughts about prepping for a potential Bug In Scenario. Hello Everyone — remember me? We have had a crazy fall here at Willow Haven and there are a lot of exciting projects in the works. I look forward to many of you returning for further training and also training with new students. My friend Todd Sepulveda who runs Prepper Website www.
The Preparedness Review is a free downloadable PDF document that includes articles written by several top survival personalities. The 1st Issue was just made available for download. Willow Haven has many friends on the East Coast — both former students and on-line friends.
- MOVIE: Red Dawn (the original)?
- Book Review: LDS Preparedness Manual.
- Unspoken Prayer.
- Best Survival and Prepper Books.
To all of you who are now dealing with the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy, our thoughts and prayers are with you. Some of them are completely worthless, some are vague and some contain downright wrong information. There are 2, though, that stand out in the crowd and have become integral references in my study of Wild Edible Plants over the years. These 2 guides are:. I like these 2 guides for completely different reasons and they complement each other well. Not only does it list pretty much every edible plant in this region but it also lists poisonous look-a-likes as well.
Each plant is illustrated by a black and white line art drawing — which is a huge frustration for me. However, all of this information is listed in one small paragraph for each plant. Thus, the information is limited to just the absolute basics and necessities to be accurate. After reading the very factual and to-the-point descriptions you are left wanting something more substantive and personal. This guide almost feels like a science book instead of a real world experience with the plants. As far as reading goes, this is by far one of my favorite books on wild edibles.
It is clear that the author, Samuel Thayer, is passionate about this subject. There is no doubt he has a personal experience with every plant he discusses. Thayer is the complete opposite. His very detailed accounts of harvesting and preparing various wild edibles are evidence of years of experimentation, study, trial and error. Unlike the Peterson Guide which just lists what parts are edible, Thayer details exactly how to harvest the plants and gives very specific advice, tips and tricks that can only be learned from experience in the field.
He has a deep appreciation and reverence for wild edibles which comes through in his writing. And, this book contains color photos of the plants in a variety of stages and harvest. Thayer also talks about exactly how he eats many of the edibles. A simple recipe, fit for the gods, is cooked wild rice with uncooked butternuts, served hot, sweetened with maple syrup. After reading his book s there are no mysteries how to eat the plants that he lists. By now, I am very familiar with nearly every wild edible in this region and consume them on a regular basis — some more often than others.
As you can see in the photos below, I study my wild edible guides and make my own personal notes in the margins. I have taken meticulous photos of many wild edibles in all seasons, during harvest and during preparation. I think it will be a very useful reference guide for those of you interested in incorporating more wild edibles into your daily diets.
For now, though, below are a couple of great web-sites that have some good free wild edible references:.