Passing Croft Lodge Jarvis, Esq. Eedmayne, Esq. Wansfell Pike and the Troutbeck Hundreds tower above them.
The road to Hawkshead having deviated to the right, the village of High Wray is gained, five miles from Ambleside ; and three miles beyond, is The Ferry Hotel, a well-conducted establishment. Coach daily during summer to Coniston. At this place a promontory pushes out iTom each shore, and a public ferry is established between them, in continuation of the road from Kendal to Hawkshead.
The village of Bowness is a pretty object on the east margin of the lake. One mile and a half from the Ferry Hotel, the stream called Cunsey, which runs froip Esthwaite Water, is crossed. At a short distanoe from the place where this stream joins the lake, is the island called ling Holm. On the opposite margin, the Storrs promontory is seen projecting into the lake. Two miles beyond is the village of Graithwaite, in the vicinity of which is Graithwaite HalL From this place to Newby Bridge, the road passes through a section of the cbuntrv, covered chiefly with coppices.
From the surface of the lake, near Silver Holm, the peak of Helvellyn is visible. As the foot of the lake is approached, it narrows rapidly and becomes literally " Wooded Winandermere, the river-lake. Newby Bridge, [Inn: — Swan]. The stream which issues from the lake takes the name of the Leven. Kendal, by way of Cartmell Fell, ten miles- — by Levens Bridge, fifteen miles ; Ambleside, by the road we have described, fifteen miles ; Bowness, nine miles.
On crossing the bridge, Mr. Machell's neat residence is seen on the right, and further on, Fell Foot is passed on the left ; a short distance beyond, Townhead is near the road on the left, about two miles from Newby Bridge. The road passes under an eminence of the Cartmell Fell chain, called Gummer's How, which forms a conspicuous object in all views from the upper end of the lake.
Thomas Staniforth. The road leading from Kendal to the Ferry is next crossed, some villas are passed, and we regain the village of Bowness. This fish, which the epicure places in his list ot dainties, is found in Ennerdale Lake, Crummock Water, Buttermere, Windermere, and Coniston Lake, the finest being taken in the last It always frequents the deep- est parts, and feeds principally by night, so that the angler has seldom an oppoi-tunity of taking it. The usual mode of fishing for char is with nets, and most of the inns situate near the lakes in which it is found have a stew into which it is thrown as soon as caught, and kept ready for use.
The ordinary length of the fish is from nine to twelve inches, and it is in its great- est perfection from July to October. It has been con- jectured that char was introduced into these lakes by the Eomans, who, in the decline of the empire, were withheld by no considerations of trouble or expense from gratifying their luxurious appetite. Boating upon the Lake will probably be the source of amusement most frequently resorted to.
The various islands should be visited and these being unusually pro- lific in plants, will afford much amusing occupation to the botanist. Sailing towards the head of the Lake, we enjoy the same prospect as that seen from the north- em extremity of Belle Isle. A short pull will take the boat to Belle Isle, upon -which strangers are alldwed to land. It con- tains Mr. Curwen's residence, erected by Mr. English in The principal entrance is a portico, supported by six massy columns and two pilasters. The stones used in the building are, for the most part, of extraordinary size, some being twenty-two feet in length, and a great num- ber fifteen feet.
It is believed that the first-named variety or species never leaves the depths of the lake. It is intersected by neat walks, over which fine trees throw their massy arms. In high floods it is cut in two by the water. During the civil war between Charles I. The latter was a man of high and adventurous courage ; and from some of his desperate exploits had acquired amongst the Parliamen- tarians the appellation of Robin the DeviL It happened, when the king's death had extinguished for a time the ardour of the cavaliers, that a certain Colonel Briggs, an officer in Oliver's army, resident in Kendal, having heard that Major Fhilipson was secreted in his brother's house on Belle Isle, went thither, armed with his double authority, for, like Sir Hudibras, he was a civil magistrate as well as a military man — " Great on the bench, great in the saddle, Mighty he was at both of these.
And styled of War as weU as Peace" , with the view of making a prisoner of the obnoxious Royalist. The attack being repulsed, the major was not a man to sit down quietly under the insult he had received. Upon arriving at Kendal, he was informed the colonel was at prayers. Without hesitation, he proceeded to church, and having i Osted his men at the chief entrance, dashed forward himself down the principal aisle into the midst of the assemblage.
Whatever was his intention — whetlier to shoot the colonel on the spot, or merely to carry him off prisoner — it was defeated : his enemy was not present. As he was making his exit from the church, his head came violently in contact with the arch of the dooiway, which was much lower than that through which he had entered.
His helmet was struck off by the blow, his saddle-girth gave way, and he himself was much stunned. Wansfell Pike is be- held over the former, and to the right of this mountain ihe valley of Trontbeck Hes amongst the hills. Longhrigg Fell, at the north-west angle of the lake, diminishes to a mere hillock Fair- field is in fall view, crowning a chain of hiUs terminated by Rydal Nab ; but the pass of Kirkstone is concealed by Wansfell.
The helmet still hangs in one of the aisles of Kendal church. This incident furnished Sir Walter Scott with a bint for his description of a similar adventure in " Rokeby," canto vL " All eyes upon the gateway hung, When through the Gothic arch there spiung A horseman armed at headlong speed — Sable his cloak, his plume, his steed — Fire from the flinty floor was spum'd, The vaults unwonted clang retum'd!
One instant's glance around he threw, From saddle-bow his pistol drew.
Grimly determined was bis look, His charger with his spurs he struck — , All scattered backward as he came, For all knew Bertram Risingham. Three bounds that noble courser gave, The first has reached the central nave, The second cleared the chancel wide. And with the rein to raise the steed. That firom amazement's iron trance. All Wycliffe's soldiers waked at once. About the year , a maniage was celebrated at Hawkshead, between a wealthy yeoman from the neighbourhood of Bowness, and a lady of the family of Sawrey, of Sawrey.
As is still customaiy in Westmoreland amongst the rustic population, the married couple were attended by a numerous concourse of friends. In conducting the bridegroom homewards, and crossing the ferry, the boat was swamped either by an eddy of wind or by too great a pressure on one side, and up- wards of fifty persons, including the bride and bride- groom perished. Eadcliffe, "the illusion of vision gave force to the northern mountains, which, viewed from hence, seem to ascend from its margin, and spread round it in a magnificent amphitheatra This was to us the most interesting view in Windermere.
Its character is of that beauty which disappears almost utterly in wet or drizzly weather. K the tourist will take the trouble to proceed about half a mile along the road to Brant Fell i. He was proud of his guests ; they respected him, and honoured and loved each other; and it would have been difficult to say which star in the constellation shone with the brightest or the softest light. There were beautiful and accomplished women to adorn and enjoy this circle.
The weather was as Elysian as tiie scenery. There were brilliant cavalcades through the woods in the mornings, and delicious boatings on the lake by moonlight; and the last day Professor Wilson ' the Admiral of the Lake,' as Canning called him presided over one of the most splendid regattas that ever enlivened Windermere. Perhaps there were not fewer than fifty barges following in the Professor's radiant proces- sion when it paused at the point of Storrs to admit into the place of honour the vessel that carried kind and happy Mr. Bolton and his guests.
The three bards of the lakes led the cheers that hailed Scott and Canning; and music, and sunshine, flags, streamers, and gay dresses, the merry hum of voices, and the rapid splashing of innumerable oars, made up a dazzling mixture of sensations as the flotilla wound its way among the richly-foliaged islands, and along bays and promontories peopled with enthusiastic spec- tators.
The memory of that bright day returns, when Windermere glittered with all her sails in honour of the Great Northern Minstrel, and of him the Eloquent, whose lips are now mute in dust. Belle Isle stretches its length of heauty helow. The outline view from Bisket How will assist in naming the other parts of the landscape. The wood, St. Cathe- rine's, and EUeray, are passed on the left. Hemans, "is in itself a festival.
I never saw any landscape bearing so triumphant a character. The house, which is beautiful, seems built as if to overlook some fairy pageant, some- thing like the Venetian splendour of old, in the glorious lake beneath. The more distant excursions will include the vaUey of Troutbeck, the ascent of High Street, the circuit of the two sections of Windermere, Esthwaite Water, and Coniston Lake.
These are but a few of the rambles which an inspection of the chart wiU suggest. Mary, Ambleside, was completed and consecrated by the Bishop of Chester in the year It stands near the centre of the valley, a little to the west of the town, and is built of the dark grey stone of the district, but the spire is of free-stone, and the mullions of the windows, the copings of the buttresses, and the doors, are also faced with the same material The steeple is unusually large in proportion to the rest of the building, and is rather singularly situated at the south-east comer.
The interior consists of a central aisle and two smaller ones, and is seated for , about half that number being free. In the N. In Memoriam Gulielmi "Wordsworth, P. There are six very good bells in the tower. Along the side of the church are the Free Gram- mar, National, and Infant schools ; and adjoining the former, the Wordsworth Memorial Library. An interesting ceremony takes place at Ambleside once every year, which the stranger may think himself fortunate in seeing, not so much for the mere sight itself, though that is pretty enough, as for its beine the vestige of a very ancient observance.
The ceremony alluded to is called the Rush-bearing. On the eve of the last Sunday in July, the village girls walk in proces- sion to the chapel, bearing garlands of flowers formerly rushes , which are there tastefully disposed. After service the day fol- lowing, these are removed, and it is usual that a sermon, in allusion to the event, be preached. This observance is probably as remote as the age of Gregory IV. In former times the rushes were spread on the floor of the sacred edifice, and the garlands remained until withered. Possibly the practice of covering the floors of buildings with rushes, by way of protection against the damp earth, may have had something to do with keeping the custom in eiistence, long after the origin of the institution had been forgotten.
And yet, when we look at this remain of the olden time, as observed at Ambleside, we are tempted to say with the poet, — " Many precious rites And customs of our rural ancestry Are gone or stealing from us : thit I hope Will last for ever. Croaafield, Esq. Clark, iiq. Redmayne , Croft Ledge T. Jervis, Esq. Bydal and Orasmere — Rydal Hall Gen. Thorn, Esq. Young, Esq. These are so numerous, that our limits will only allow us to particularise a few. The chart of Winder- mere will render the stranger considerable assistance in any rambles he may wish to undertake.
In a field near the edge of Windermere, are the indistinct remains of a EoiiAN Station, where coins, urns, and other relics have been frequently discovered. In the Library of the University of Oxford there is a collection of coins found at this placa Camden sur- mises that the Amboglana of the Notitia was seated here; but this supposition is beset with insuperable difficulties, and the place is now generally beHeved to be the site of the Station Dictis.
The freestone used in the construction of the fortification is supposed to have been brought from Dalton in Fumess, near Ulver- ston. The castrum was a parallelogram of feet by , the shorter side being nearest the Laka Stock Gill, a tributaiy to the Bothay, is a fine Force, in a copsewood about ten minutes' walk from the Market House the road to which passes through the stable-yard of the Salutation Hotel. The water makes three falls, altogether 70 feet in height — the two highest being divided into two parts by projecting rocks; portions of all are visible from the usual stand; but the views may be pleasingly varied by descending the bank to the stream, or proceeding farther up the Gill.
Indeed, if the walk were continued for a mile alongside the stream, which rises in Kirkstone, much beautiful scenery would be witiiessed. From Ivy Crag, a rock overhanging that piece of water, a very delightful prospect is obtained, and the walk to Bound Knott, at the eastern extremity of Loughrigg Fell, is highly recommended. A ramble on the side of Wansfell, passing behind Low Wood Inn, will yield much gratification. Begin at Low Fold, and ascend through the woods for upwards of a mile, to High Skelgill. And shadowed in thy stillness like the heavens Yea, sweet Lake, Oft hast thou borne into my grateftil heart Thy lovely presence, with a thousand dreams Dancing and brightening o'er thy sunny wave, Through many a weaiy mile of mist and snow Between us interposed.
It com- mands extensive views of the vale and surrounding mountains, as well as of Windermere, Grasmere, and Rydal Lake, Blelham, Loughrigg, and Elterwater Tarns, with the towns of Ambleside and Hawkshead. An excursion of ten miles through the retired side- valley of TROUTBECK may be conveniently made from Amblesida As the latter part of the route is practicable for horsemen and pedestrains only, those who take conveyances will be compelled to return by the road they go, as soon as they arrive at the head of Troutbeck, unless they pro- ceed by way of Kirkstone to Patterdale.
The tourist must pursue the Kendal road for two miles, and take the first road on the left when he has passed Low Wood Inn. The lake has much of the character of a river, without losing its own. The islands are seen almost all lying together in a cluster — below which, all is loveliness and beauty — above, all majesty and grandeur. Bold or gentle pro- montories break all the banks into frequent bays, seldom without a cottage or cottages embowered in trees, and, while the whole landscape is of a sylvan kind, parts of it are so laden with woods, that you see only here and there a wreath of smoke, but no houses, and could almost believe that you are gazing on prime- val forests.
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On the opposite side, the Howe, the residence of Captain Wilson, R. Taking his station here, and turning to the north-east, the spectator has the mountains of Kentmere before him. The nearest elevation is called the Yoke ; the two next, having the appearance of the humps on a camel's back, are Hill Bell and Frossick ; and farther on, is Thomthwaite Crag, the western extremity of High Street.
Having left the Mortal Man three miles behind, and climbed the side of Woundale for some distance, until the western mountains begin to make their appearance, a road through the fields, on the left, will be discovered, which, after presenting a charming view of the head of Windermere, passes, in succession, three farm-houses, High Grove, Middle Grove, and Low Grove, in Stock- dale, and enters Ambleside, three miles from the deviation.
By continuing the ascent for a mile further, the tourist would enter the road from Ambleside to UUswater, at the pass of Kirkstone. A few particulars relative to Troutbeck may be here mentioned. To begin with the least disputable portion of them, this valley was the birth-place of the father of Hogarth, the most intensely English of our painters. Though now bare of wood, the old inhabi- tants say that a squirrel could once have passed from the margin of Windermere to Thresthwaite Mouth, the slack at the head of the vale, without touching the ground.
These tales are firmly believed by the yeomen of Troutbeck, for as yet no Niebuhr has arisen amongst them. The walk from Ambleside to Rydal, along the banks of the Eothay, and underneath Loughrigg Fell, is extremely delightful Though more circuitous than the highway, it presents finer combinations of scenery. The tourist, intending to take this round, should pur- sue the road to Clappersgate for half a mile to Eothay Bridge, and having crossed the bridge, enter the first gate on the right The road leads alongside the river, passing many pretty houses amongst which is Fox How, inhabited by the late Dr.
Arnold , to Pelter Bridge, two miles and a half. Eydal Hall, with its park, and Eydal Mount, will be frequently in sight. By crossing the bridge, the Keswick Koad will be gained, and the tourist can then either Tetiim to Ambleside, or proceed to Eydal, which is or yards further. Those who are fond of long walks, should, instead of crossing the bridge, keep to the left and pursue the road behind the farm house, called Coat How, which leads above the south-west shore of Bydal Mere.
Here the tourist has the choice of returning to Amble- side by Loughrigg Tarn and Clappersgate, or proceeding to Grasmere village, in doing which he will pass in succession Dale End, the Wyke, and the Cottage, all on the maigin of the lake. The ancestor of the Flemings came to England, out of Flanders, with the Conqueror, and obtained large grants of land in Lancashire north of the Sands.
Gleaston Castle, in Fumess, and Coniston Hall, were residences of the family before they settled at Eydal The celebrated Waterfalls are within the park ; and strangers desirous to view them must take a conductor from one of the cottages near the park gates. By all means wander away into those old woods, and lose your- selves for an honr or two among the cooing of cnshats, and the shrill shriek of startled blackbirds, and the rustle of the harmless glow-worm among the last year's red beech-leaves. No very great harm should you even fall asleep under the shadow of an oak, while the magpie chatters at safe distance, and the more innocent squirrel peeps down upon you from a bough of the canopy, and then hoisting his tail, glides into the obscurity of the loftiest umbrage.
This" little theatrical scene might be painted as large as the original, on a canvas not bigger than those usually dropped in the Opera-house. Where antique roots its bristling course o'erlook. The eye reposes on a secret bridge. Half grey, naif shagg'd with ivy to its ridge. It was erected at the expense of Lady le Fleming in Wordsworth addressed some verses to her ladyship on seeing the foundation preparing for its erection, from which these lines are taken : — " Lady!
How fondly will the woods embrace This daughter of thy pious care, Lifting her front, with modest grace, To make a fair recess more fair And to exalt the passing hour, Or soothe it with a healine power, Drawn from the Sacrifice frufiU'd, Before this rugged soil was till'd ; Or human habitation rose To interrupt the deep repose. Well may the villagers rejoice! Nor heat, nor cold, nor weary ways.
Will be a hindrance to the voice That would unite in prayer and praise ; More duly shall wild wanderine youth Receive the curb of sacred trutli ; Shall tottering age, bent earthward, hear The Promise, with uplifted ear ; And all shall welcome the new ray Imparted to their Sabbath day. Nor deem the Poet's hope misplaced, His fancy cheated — that can see A shade upon the future cast, Of Time's pathetic sanctity ; Can hear the monitory clock Sound o'er the lake, with gentle shock, At evening, when the ground beneath Is ruffled o'er with cells of death, Where happy generations lie Here tutor'd for eternity.
It is, as Mrs. Hemans in one of her letters describes it "a lovely cottage-like building, almost hidden by a profusion of roses and ivy. Wordsworth is dead, and the home that was the poet's is now broken up. Like those that did in fable old Elysium from the world infold. The commanding and varied prospect obtained from the summit' of Nab Scar richly repays the labour of the ascent. From the summit, eight different sheets of water are seen — viz. Morecambe Bay is also distinctly visible. Pursuing the high road from Rydal to Grasmere, a sharp turn brings us in sight of Rydal Mere.
Ball, Esq. The lake is very small, being not more than half a mile long, by scarcely a third of a mile broad, but the scenery surrounding it is eminently beautiful It is fed by the stream from Grasmere Lake, and sends in its turn a feeder, called Rothay, to Windermere. The irregular heights of Loughrigg Fell rise above the south- west margin, whilst the road we are traversing is over- looked by the rocky front of Nab Scar.
Near White Moss Quarry, now unworked, two ancient roads to Gras- mere cross the ridge which partitions that valley from Rydal, both of them shorter than the modem way. The pedestrian will do wisely to pursue this road, as the views to be seen from it are of the most delightful kind Grasmere Lake is somewhat larger every way than its sister mere.
It has just one island placed in its centre. In the village, comfortable quarters are provided at the " Red Lion" and the " Swan," and private lodgings can lie procured if required. Afterwards, for many a year, it was mine. The village, a sweet little place, stands amongst the flat meadows at the head of the lake, four miles from Ambleside.
In the burying- ground, adjoining the parish church, are interred the remains of the Poet Wordsworth, who died on April 23, Grasmere is an excellent station for en- terprising tourists. Allan Bank Thomas Dawson, Esq. This house was for some time inhabited by Wordsworth, memorials of whom might be gathered throughout the whole vale, for here he spent many happy years, and there is scarcely a crag, a knoll, or a rill, which has not found a place in his " numerous verse. The sketch was made in descending from Dunmail Raise : — " The bosom of the mountains, spreading here into a broad basin, dis- covers in the midst Grasmere Water; its margin is hollowed into small bays, with eminences, some of rock, some of soft turf, that half conceal and vary the figure of the little lake they command : from the shore, a low promontory pushes itself far into the water, and on it stands a white village, with a parish church rising in the midst of it ; hanging enclosures, com fields, and meadows green as an emerald, with their trees and hedges, and cattle, fill up the whole space from the edge of the water ; and just opposite to you is a large farm-house, at the bottom of a steep smooth lawn, embosomed in old woods, which climb half-way up the mountain- sides, and discover above a broken line of crags that crown the Sciue.
Not a single red tile, no staring gentleman's house, breaks in upon the repose of this unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, in its sweetest, most becoming attire. Oft dotn your dreamy loveliness return, Colouring the tender shadows of my sleep, With light Elysian ; — for the hues that steep Your shores in melting lustre, seem to float On golden clouds from spirit lands remote, Isles of the blest ; — and in our memory keep Their place with holiest harmonies.
Still, still unchanged, may one sweet region wear Smiles that subdue the soul to love, and tears, and prayer! About a mile from Grasmere, on an eminence, over which the old road to Ambleside passes, and exactly opposite to the middle of the lake, is the Wishing-Gate. It has been so called, time out of mind, from a belief that wishes formed or indulged there have a favourable issue.
Apart from any adventitious interest, the gate is an excellent station for viewing the lake. The village and church of Gras- mere stand at the head of the lake, whilst, more to the right, Helm Crag rises like a wedge from the valley. Dunmail Eaise is seen to advantage dipping between Steel Fell and Seat SandaL Wordsworth's verses, which we take the liberty of transcribing, are worthy of so beautiful a scene.
And Fancy smooths the way. Panting for glory as he fell — Or here a saint expired. And in her fondest love : Peace to embosom and content, To overawe the turbulent. The selfish to reprove. The infection of the ground partakes, Longing for his beloved — who makes All happiness her own. The local Grenins ne'er befriends Desires whose course in folly ends. Whose just reward is sname. Yet passmg here might pause, And yearn for insight to allay Misgiving, while the crimson day In quietness withdraws ; " Or when, the church-clock's knell profound To time's first step across the bound Of midnight makes reply ; Time pressing on with starry crest.
To filial sleen upon the breast Of dread eternity! Its summit, distant about two miles from the inn, com- mands an extensive prospect. The glen of Easdale which, with reference to Grasmere, has been described as " a chamber within a chamber, or rather a closet within a chamber— a chapel within a cathedral — a little private oratory within a chapel" , deserves a visit for its picturesque and secluded beauty. The left branch contains the cascade of Sour Milk Gill and the large Tarn of Easdale lying under lofty crags.
Hence it is not difficult to ascend Codale Fell, which, being in the centre of the district, commands most striking views of the surrounding mountains : — Serjeant Man, over Langdale, commands the eastern and southern valleys ; High Raise, three EASDALE. Eight Lakes, and at least eight Tarns, may be -seen from these points. The excursion may be continued to Langdale Pikes.
Ramblings SINCE March 2016...
A fatal accident which befell two of the in- habitants of Easdale upwards of forty years ago, still Uyes in the memory of the dalelanders. George and Sarah Green, poor and hard-working peasants, in re- turning home, late on a winter evening, from Langdale, were lost in a snow-storm, which at the same time lock- ed up six children within their Easdale cottage for several days.
During that period, the eldest child, a girl only nine years old, exhibited unusual care and thoughtfulness, in providing for the wants of the orphan household. At length, making her escape, she alarmed the neighbourhood ; but it was not until after a search of three days that the bodies of her parents were dis- covered on the hills, lying not far from each other. See De Quincey, vol. Excursions may be made from Grasmere into Lang- dale and Patterdale.
The road to the former valley divides into two, soon after crossing Bed Bank. The road on the right, which passes High Close, must be taken, if the object in view be to visit Great langdale and the Pikes ; but in order to enter Little Langdale, either Skelwith or Elterwater Bridges, each three miles from Grasmere, must be crossed. The chart of Win- dermere will explain these directions. A mountain path, seven miles in length, conducting past Grisedale Tarn, and through Grisedale glen to Ullswater, quits the Keswick road at a bridge a mile above the Swan Lin.
Finally, amongst the excursions from Grasmere, those to the summit of Helvellyn and Fairfield may be mentioned. This circuit, which we shall describe, is about eighteen miles in length. With the intention, then, of visiting the two Langdales in succession, the tourist will leave Ambleside by the road to Clappersgate, winding under the craggy heights of Loughrigg Fell, on the banks of the Brathay, near the source of which he will be ere long. A newly built chapel will be observed in a charming situation on the south bank of the river.
By this bridge the traveller is conducted into Lancashire, in which county the road does not continue for more than a mile before it re-enters West- moreland at Colwith Bridge. Proceeding onwards, Little Langdale Tarn becomes visible on the loft — on the right is lingmoor, a hill which serves as a partition between the two Langdales.
And one oare dwelling — one abode, no more! It seem'd the home of poverty and toil, Though not of want. The little fields made green By husbandry of many thrifty years, Paid cheerful tribute to the moorland house — There crows the cock single in his domain : The small birds find in spring no thicket there To shroud them ; only from the neighbouring vales The cuckoo, straggling up to the hill tops, Shouteth faint tidings of some gladder place.
Harrison Stickle is , and Pike o' Stickle, the lower, feet in height.
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Having passed the tarn, the road winds down a steep descent into the head of Great Langdale, that part of it called Mickleden, through which is the road over the Stake into Borrowdale, heing right before the eye. From the top of the descent, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags have a grand appearance. At the foot of the descent is the old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, and a mile farther down the valley is the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, the latter being nearest the force. At either guides may be obtained. The force is a fall of water, formed by a stream which runs down a fissure in the face of the first great buttress of the Pikes, twenty- minutes' climb from the vale.
A natural arch has been made by two large stones having rolled from a higher part of the mountain, and got wedged in between the cheeks of rock. Into a chasm, a mighty block Hath fall'n, and made a bridge of rock : The gulf is deep below, And in a basin, black and small, Receives a lofty Waterfall. Who all give back one after t'other. The death-note to their loving brother ; And oft, too, by their knell offended, Just as their one I two 1 three! By a little scrambling, the visitor may stand underneath the arch and in fix nt of the waterfall. Two roads traverse the valley, one keeps mider the hills on the left, the other takes the middle of the vale ; — the former is to be preferred by pedestrians.
One mile and a half from Millbeck is the little chapel of Langdale, whence a road, 3 miles in length, strikes up the hill-side, and crossing Eed Bank, descends into Grasmere. In the vicinity of the chapel, is Thrang Slate Quarry, a stupendous excavation. Continuing our march direct to Ambleside, the large sheet of water which now comes into sight, is Elter- water Tarn, and at the head of it stands Elterwater Hall The stream feeding the tarn is crossed by a bridge, near the works of the Elterwater Gunpowder Company.
A little further is Loughrigg Tarn. The round here described is about 18 miles. If the traveller returns by Eed Bank and Grasmere, the excursion is about 21 miles. Pedestrians occasionally prefer to reach Keswick by the Stake Pass instead of by the high road. Millbeck under Langdale Pikes is seven miles and a-half from Ambleside ; thence through Mickleden, Bowfell being on the left, and up a ravine at the head of the vale, starting up the hill at some sheep-folds, to the top of the Stake, is four miles and a half ; and Eosthwaite in Borrowdale is five miles further.
The whole distance from Ambleside to Keswick by this route is twenty- three miles. The path pursues a peat road leading to Stickle Tarn, well known to the angler for its fine trout, which lies under a lofty ridge of rock called Pavey Ark. This tarn must he left on the right, and a streamlet which runs down the hill side taken as a guide. The path hecomes at this part exceedingly steep, but a little patient exertion wiU soon place the tourist on the summit of Harrison Stickle.
Stickle Tarn is immediately below the eye, guarded by the frowning heights of Pavey Ark. In the south- east are the hills around the valley of Ambleside, beyond, those at the head of Troutbeck and Kentmere.
THE RUNNING RAMBLINGS OF NOBODY IN PARTICULAR
Loughrigg Fell conceals a portion of the head of the lake as well as the town of Ambleside. Underbarrow Scar, near Kendal, is seen over Bowness. Esthwaite Water is seen on the south-south-east, and close at hand, towards the right, is the bluff summit of Wetherlam End. A small part of the sea is embraced in the view in this direction. The Old Man and the Great Cans shut in the prospect on the south-west.
Pike o' Stickle has the advantage of commanding a good view of Bassenthwaite Mere and Skiddaw. In other respects the highest peak has a finer range of prospect. The ascent of this moxmtain, from either Amble- side or Low Wood Hotel, will afford the pedestrian an agreeable morning's ramble. Its elevation of feet, whilst sufficient to command extensive prospects, lenders it accessible with a moderate amount of exertion. Its geological composition is slate, of little value in point of commercial utihty, with a thin band of lime- stone running across its southern side, of a kind extremely similar to that termed Ludlow limestone.
The views on the north and east are contracted, on account of the proximity of loftier elevations, but in other directions they are far stretching. The valley of Troutbeck runs up on the east, and the mountainous range on its further side consists of Applethwaite Common, the Yoke, Hill Bell, Frossick, and the near extremity of High Street. A depression, called Thres- thwaite Mouth, separates the last-named hill from Codale Moor. Directly north is the pass of Earkstone with its little inn looking like a single block of stone.
Place Fell, on the margin of Ulleswater, is seen through the dip.
The hill Kirkstone with its screes guards the left of the pass, and slopes with a rounded ridge into the valley of Ambleside. Hall in its park of fine wood This ridge is called Scandale, the upper part of Eydal vale being enclosed between it and Eydal Fell, of which the highest summit is Fairfield, and the lower extremity Nab Scar, a noble piece of rock overlooking Eydalmere.
Further on, Grasmere is perceived, backed by the Easdale Fells. Loughrigg Fell is to the left of Eydalmere, whilst Langdale Pikes, never to be mistaken, rise beyond. Great End peeps over a chain of hills from another valley, and is succeeded by Bow Fell, a broad topped mountain with a slope towards the north. A glimpse of Scawfell Pike is then caught. A dancette to use a heraldic term of three angular peaks, points out Crinkle Crags.
A deep depression indicates the pass over Wrynose, and then the bold front of Wetherlam stands forward. Coniston Old Man is the highest summit in this quarter. Turning the attention to objects nearer us, the vale of Ambleside, immediately beneath the spectator's eye, is extremely beautiful, with its rich variety of wood and water.
The head of Windermere is concealed by a projection of the moun- tain, but the indentation called Pull Wyke is visible. From a point a little below the summit, the lake expands with all its charms, diversified with islands, bays, and promontories, and set in a rich frame of undulating ground. Gummer's How is on the left bank near the foot, and the sands of Morecambe Bay close in the southern horizon.
Blelham Tarn, a piece of water, is seen on the other side of the lake, and the village of Hawkshead not far off to the left. If the stranger wishes to prolong his ramble amongst the hills, he may make for the pass of Earkstone, and approach Ullswater ; or descend into Troutbeck, climb High Street, and procure night quarters at the secluded inn on Mardale Green, near Hawes Water. The Church, dedicated to St. Michael, occupies an elevation in the town, which commands a good prospect of the adjacent country.
The church contains a monument to the Archbishop's father and mother. In the church there also lies interred the accomplished Miss Elizabeth Smith, whose memoir has been published. A marble tablet has been erected to her memory. The most remarkable object in the neighbourhood is the little lake of Esth- waite, a quiet cheerful piece of water, about two miles in length, and a third of a mile in breadth at its broadest part. He was bom in , and after having suffered an imprisonment in the Tower, and the misery of an exile, became successively Bishop of Worcester and London, before he adorned the Archiepiscopal See of York.
Nevertheless, many pretty houses, scattered up and down, give an enlivening effect to the scenery; and the mountain-summits, which peer into this from other valleys, serve to restore the sense of an Alpine region. A floating-island, twenty-four yards by five, occupies a pond near the head of the lake. When the wind is high, this piece of ground, with its alders and willows, is very visibly thrown into motion. The superfluous water of the lake is carried off by a stream called the Cunsey into Windermere.
Esthwaite-water is the scene of Wordsworth's fine skating description. Perhaps the best station for viewing the lake is firam a point on the west margin, and towards its foot, about two hundred yards on the Ulverston road, after its divergence from the road to Windermere. A drive round the lake will form a pleasant extension of the excursion. Quitting Hawkshead for Coniston, an old farm- house, with a mullioned window, will be seen near a brook, at the angle where the Coniston and Ambleside roads diverge. Here, in former days, one or two monks, from Fumess Abbey, resided, in order to administer spiritual assistance to the neighbourhood, and to perform divine service in the church.
It was here, also, that the Abbots of Furness held their manor courts. From the acclivity which has to be ascended, there is a good view to the right of hills which princi- pally cluster round the valley of Ambleside. The group begins with Hill Bell ; the pointed mountain in front is Wansfell — whilst through the pass of Kjrk- atone, you catch a glimpse of Place Fell on Ulleswater.
Eell, Fairfield, and Eydal Fell. Loughrigg, which stands in the foreground, shrinks to a mole-hill when brought into comparison with his lofty brethren. From Torver the road lies across elevated ground, bare both of vegetation and interest, until we begin to descend into Coniston vale, which opens out to the eye, with its lake aad verdure, in a manner the most charming. The Man Moimtain is right in front, and the deep coom, where the mines are situate, is conspi- cuous. The bold outline, with the alternate prominences and depressions, is exceedingly fine, and attracts the attention almost to the exclusion of everything else.
The road winds through the grounds attached to Waterhead House Marshall, Esq. Shortly afterwards, Coniston Lake, sometimes called Thurston water, appears. Waterhead Hotel, beautifully situated near the head of the lake, eight miles from Ambleside, furnishes comfortable quarters, and is a convenient place whence to detour through the neighbourhood, which contains much worth seeing. This lake is about six and a half miles long, its greatest breadth not exceeding one mile. The lake contains two islands, the uppermost, called Elnott's Island, after its pro- prietor, but more generally Fir Island, being covered with Scotch firs ; the lower Peel Island, or from its shape, Gridiron.
Char, trout, and perch are found in the lake. The station, from which the outline view of this lake is taken, is a little beyond Tent Lodge, on the Ulverston road The. Its boldest aspect, however, is presented when seen from the neighbourhood of Torver. It forms the highest peak of the Coniston Fell range, reaching an altitude of feet. Geologically, the mountain belongs to the green slate system, and it yields a fine roofing-slate, for the excavation of which material there are several quarries, now in a great measure unworked.
At the south-east foot of the hill, there strikes north-east and south-west a band of dark greenish-blue limestone, the equivalent of the Bala limestone of Wales ; and this is accompanied by a group of slates, flags, grits, and shales, which are beUeved to constitute the top of the Lower Silurian series.
Speaking of photographs, our anniversary competition draws to a close any day now. You have until April 3 to submit your images; details can be found on page While most fellwalkers carry a camera, not all are united in their appreciation of dogs. Call or email subscriptions dalesman. See page Keen fell-walker Steve has walked and climbed all over the world. He is a freelance writer who focuses on the Lake District.
Having walked the British hills for more than thirty years, Paul is rediscovering the special rewards of walking among the peaks of Lakeland. That said, he claims to already have, like Ronald, a wealth of experience of downing pints in Cumbrian hostelries. Contents 03 Welcome This spring issue has a canine feel to it — plus our regulars to inspire all fell-walkers out there.
He shares his story with John Manning. Peter Naldrett looks at how dog walkers, farmers and landowners can coexist happily. You should carry appropriate clothing, equipment and maps, and wear suitable footwear. The details given within this issue were believed to be correct at the time of going to press but neither the authors nor Country Publications Ltd can accept responsibility for inaccuracies. Please stick to rights of way and access land at all times. Country Publications Ltd does not accept responsibility for loss or damage to unsolicited drawings, paintings, photographs or manuscripts.
The cost of returning such material must be paid for by the original sender. No part of this publication may be reproduced,. While the publishers will use every endeavour to ensure that advertisements which appear are accurate and reliable, we cannot be held liable for any loss or inconvenience incurred by readers. We will use any personal information that you provide to contact you by post, telephone or email regarding product or subscription orders that you place.
Please write to our subscriptions department if you do not wish this to happen. Advertisement origination by Country Publications Ltd. The walks form part of a packed programme of sporting events, talks, walks and courses designed to appeal to families as much as athletes, as well as outdoor enthusiasts from every discipline.
Editor John Manning. Above, crowds enjoy live music with a Cat Bells backdrop photo by Dougie Cunningham, courtesy KMF ; below, youngsters have a go at climbing photo by Stuart Holmes, courtesy KMF will be on hand to meet readers and chat about the magazine, the latest issue of which will be available, along with various goodies and giveaways.
KMF organisers drew wide criticism in October when they announced that the dates of the festival had been changed from May to June. Many people intending. Organisers countered some of the criticism by stating that the change had been necessary to allow an expansion of provisions for camping, an enhanced programme and the potential to attract more visitors during early summer.
Capacity for camping close to the festival activities has indeed been expanded. Prices do not include meals or festival tickets, though toilets and showers will be available. Weekend festival tickets, which can be booked at keswickmountainfestival. March—April Lakeland Walker 7. Holding a walk, talk or related event? Let Lakeland Walker spread the news!
Email details to johnm dalesman. Find us online at: www. Starts 6. Free, please book. Details: Chris Loynes, email chris. Must be pre-booked with organiser. Starts Booking advised. Free of charge. Starts 7pm drinks for 7. Road, Kendal. Details: Tim Foster, , email nw rgs. Free entry. Mary also contributed for many years to our sister title Cumbria magazine and wrote two walking guides, reprinted several times, for our publisher Dalesman.
She managed to be thoroughly professional while always a pleasure to work with. She was a great favourite with readers and an inspiration to many outdoor writers. Characteristically, she had started to prepare a new portfolio of walks. The display will run until January and, like the documentary, will have input from community groups. Coordinator Jenn Mattinson is working with volunteers and residents to collect memories, stories, objects and photographs about the mountain as well as their hopes for the future.
For information contact curator Sue Mackay on or by email at sue. Leslie founded the magazine on behalf of the sub-regional Lakeland groups of the Youth Hostels Association. He was made an MBE in It means Terry is now based in the county he loves, which provided the setting for his most successful documentaries to date.
It involves walking sixty-six miles over the three days, covering thirty-three Wainwrights and ascending 17, feet. While he walks to raise money for mental health charity Mind, participants — who take part at their own risk — are welcome to use the event to raise funds for any cause close to their hearts. The TSLC is intended as an any-time challenge, with information — including itineraries, accommodation suggestions and public transport times — provided on the website.
For details of the event and the any-time challenge, visit tslc. In February team members took the equipment, which includes a small, portable satellite dish and computers, into the Kentmere Valley — a known communications blackspot — and gave it a thorough test in poor conditions. We would like to thank all members of the public who make donations to Kendal MRT, which in turn enables us to make these purchases. Hundreds of entries have been received so far — from skilled enthusiasts and professionals alike — and a small selection is shown on this page.
Email your images — high resolution preferred — to johnm dalesman. Remember to include your name, email address, category entered and a brief caption. Guidelines, and terms and conditions, can be found at www. Your Pictures Carrying a camera on the fells? Send in your favourite shots — if one appears here it could win you a pair of Bridgedale socks. Their bound copper ions offer enhanced antimicrobial properties, reducing odour and promoting healthier feet. Please ensure you include your full address and shoe size in your email.
John J. William, of Billingham in Teesside, takes a break with wife Joan and their dog Roly on the new stone bench near the crossroads that lead to the stone circle from Pooley Bridge, to Howtown and Arthur's Pike. Email your images to johnm dalesman. You can also upload pictures to www. Keswick Mountain Festival — the ultimate outdoor weekend — returns on the weekend of June 8—11 with a packed schedule of outdoor activities, sports events, family attractions, camping and live music.
The site will be packed with displays, activities and great food and drink. The tickets give access to festival village activities, including the live music on both nights. Its iconic Freeflow pack has been a fixture on the hills for a generation and, after more than a year in development, the new Freeflow range promises to be more popular than ever. Its cleverly updated back system minimises contact between pack and walker — extensive tests on the fells have shown that backs remain thirty per cent drier than with a closefitting system.
The new Freeflows are available now in a range of sizes, from 20 to 40 litres. For more information visit www. Email your entry to linda dalesman. The first five correct entries drawn after April 24, , will win. If you do not wish to receive promotional material, please indicate on your entry. Usual Country Publications Ltd rules apply. Paintings by numbers John Manning chats with artist Andy Beck about his ten-year project to depict all the Wainwrights in colour.
The publication date is just weeks away. On the phone, though, Andy sounds anxious. Gone are the vibrancy and colour of his paintings. While you or I might. All will feature in a book so weighty that, when printed, each of the 5, numbered and signed copies will have to be bound by hand. His early memories are of cycling holidays around the North Antrim coast, and summers spent sketching and painting. It seemed time to make a change. At that time Wainwright was not such a feature — I had one or two of the Pictorial Guides but did not follow him religiously.
Andy only came across the Pictorial Guides by chance, in an Ambleside bookshop. The hand-drawn illustrations appealed as an alternative to photographs. Wainwright decided on his own format, which was his personal trait. Others have tried to copy but none will better it. I am a fan of what he did — what he put on the page is important. I got out my Pictorial Guide and compared the picture.
I must have been standing within three or four metres of where Wainwright had stood. I found that very interesting and considered doing a colour version of that sketch. There was no big plan, but an inspired. It was as simple as that but it snowballed. Andy adopted a similar approach,. I imagine that many people will read my book while comparing the sketches to those in the original guides. Pictorial Guides.
Your next walking holiday awaits...
Art is something I enjoy so if I can make a career out of a passion then why not give it a go? My more traditional style does not appeal to funding from arts councils or other agencies, which tend to support more avant-garde styles. Thankfully, there are some who appreciate my style when they could have bought photographs or paintings in other mediums. The interest and support from customers, the fact that clients were prepared to order works that were hardly even started, have been the driving factors to see The Wainwrights in Colour through to its end.
Perhaps that would have tainted my opinion of his work. There is something intriguing about him; even today it seems there is this myth about his grumpiness — often a tag given by those who never met him in person. If he was a happy-go-lucky, back-slapping-in-the-pub sort-of-guy, would he still be held in such reverence as he is today? I think not. Lakeland walkies With great dogs comes great responsibility. Dog walkers have as much right to enjoy the mountains as other fellwalkers but they must also think about others — people and animals alike — says Peter Naldrett.
I had to bear in mind both the planning of the walks and the act of getting out there to enjoy them. While we as fellwalkers might want challenging terrain and outstanding views, the dogs in our lives are just as likely to wag their tails over something as easily accessed as a nice river and a small wood. I had additional perspectives to consider.
Then there are the farmers, the custodians of Lakeland, who are responsible for so much of the landscape and, of course, earn their livelihood from it.
Full text of "Hawkshead: (the northernmost parish of Lancashire)"
Nobody with any sense wants to upset a farmer. Planning a dog walk is about so much more than keeping you and Rover happy. I reckoned that a chat with landowners and decision-makers in the Lake District might help give us all a bit of a reminder. Nick Thorne is the countryside access adviser for the National Park Authority and is keen for more people to learn about being safe with dogs on the fells.
It only takes one person failing to clean up after their dog and, over the course of a few weeks, you have an unsightly, unhealthy mess. Nobody likes that, particularly families with young children. Nick points out that the responsibility for dog waste bins lies with district councils and there are plenty in place already, though they tend to be in car parks and urban edges rather than in the countryside. Ironically, many of the comments received by the National Park Authority about dogs come from dog owners themselves.
There are several instances of cattle chasing dogs and their owners in the Lake District and elsewhere, some resulting in serious injuries. The biggest job they can do is to educate people. And taking responsibility is the best way for humans, dogs and cattle to stay safe out on the fells. The answer, unfortunately, is not entirely straightforward. There have been many instances when, sadly, dogs have stolen eggs from nests on the ground, and have chased pregnant ewes and young lambs.
The stress of what the dog might see as a game, but to the sheep is an attack, can literally kill sheep of any age. The general response, however, is that you should have your lead handy at all times, and your dog should always be under control, close to you. There is no textbook answer: you have to be both sensible and responsible. Getting the message across, so that our four-legged friends can also enjoy the countryside in safety. Serious business Sheep worrying is about much more than bringing a playful dog back under control.
Last year there were twentytwo instances of dogs killing one or more sheep on Cumbrian farms, and police received reports of twice as many attacks across the county. Garsdale farmer Ian Calvert had to put sheep down after they were worried by dogs. In some circumstances, farmers and landowners have a defence in law to shoot dogs when they are endangering animals. It can lead to significant consequences for sheep and therefore farmers, and can be so easily prevented by owners keeping their dogs on a lead.
A dog does not have to physically attack livestock to cause harm — even chasing them can cause distress and easily cause a pregnant sheep to miscarry. Red Pike Two legs good, four legs even better. These amazing natural features, caused by the slow process of erosion over millennia, provide a sense of inner peace in calm Lakeland surroundings, and a place where a dog can enjoy a dip and cool down after the exertion of bounding up a fellside. This walk is blessed with one of each. Just hearing Scale Force from above is enchanting.
The Red Pike hike is full of canine adventure. As well as the water, the dogs will love dipping their noses in two lakes; there are trees and heather to rummage around in and the challenge of negotiating rocks. You will love the view from the top as well, but remember to have your lead handy for when the need arises. Peter Naldrett scales a pooch-friendly peak that demands the use of hands as well as paws to ascend and descend 1 START Leave the car park and turn right along the road towards Buttermere, turning right again after the Bridge Hotel.
Beyond another gate, cross a stream on either stepping stones or another bridge and press on towards Crummock Water on a pleasant tree-edged path strewn with mossy stones. The easy path crosses another wooden footbridge as you reach Crummock Water. At a large cairn, keep ahead; the path — rocky and wet in parts — starts to trend left as you slip towards the small valley of Scale Beck. After about yards you reach Scale Beck and the long gorge it has created. The closer you get to the summit, the rockier the path becomes. Should mist descend, cairns guide the way — though this is no place for anyone whose navigation skills are dodgy.
The gradient soon eases though and a red, rocky path leads down to Bleaberry Tarn. Head round the tarn to cross the outflow, Sourmilk Gill, and take the path left. There are great views of the two lakes as you descend the improving path; a sharp-right. The Strathearn towns of Comrie and Crieff are well seen, while the Ochils occupy the southern arc of the view and Ben Chonzie and its neighbours tower over the scene to the north.
Twmpa is best climbed from the car park at the summit of Gospel Pass, from which it's a deceptively easy stroll of some 25 minutes. The view is very similar to that from Hay Bluff, taking in the Black Mountains to the south, the Brecon Beacons to the southwest, and the rural expanses of Powys and Herefordshire to the northwest and northeast respectively. It rises above the scattered village of Inkpen a handful of miles south west of the market town of Newbury. It's possible to drive almost to the summit; roads cross the ridge a few hundred yards away both to the east and west.
Non drivers can walk up from Kintbury station on the Great Western railway line from where it's just over three miles, or the Newbury - Hungerford bus will get you to Upper Green just a mile away. The ridge path misses the summit by a hundred and fifty yards but it's a simple enough matter to shin over a gate and take the short path to the trig pillar. Pleasant pastoral country surrounds the hill though the best views are had from the slopes to the north overlooking Newbury. The top is grassy and unexciting and it's easy to see why Wainwright did not consider it to be part of "proper" lakeland fell country, yet it is but a four-minute detour from the path and can be climbed from Coniston village in little more than an hour.
Dow Crag and its tops dominate the view to the north while the shapely cones of Caw and Harter Fell pictured feature prominently to the south and west respectively. Walton Hill itself is a pleasant sandy ridge, mostly wooded, and criscrossed by a maze of footpaths and bridleways. It lays only two miles from Halesowen and is thus very accessible from the city; the nearest public transport access is the village of Romsley.
The top is a bare 10 minutes of ascent from the nearest road, and Birmingham dominates the view through the whole northern arc. The view southwards is a complete contrast, taking in the pastoral countryside of the Severn vale fringed in the distance by the Cotswolds, the Malverns and Bredon Hill. The fell and the summit seen here is Wansfell Pike, which stands proudly above Ambleside to the east. But it is not actually Wansfell proper, which stands a kilometre northeast and is several feet higher, and furthermore is actually given as Baystones q.
None of this takes anything away from Wansfell Pike, of course, which is a fine little summit just an hour's climb from Ambleside. There is an excellent view of the town and down the length of Windermere, and further afield the Langdales, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags look especially inviting from here. The terrain is rugged and thorny and an easy ascent is a matter of finding the start of the correct path from the road, which is at approx SW There is a parking place several hundred metres to the west.
Follow the track up to an old mine building and then take a fainter track to the left; the summit is in view and is obvious.